How to Shave Like a Pro with a Straight Razor
Remember the scene in "Skyfall" where the gorgeous Moneypenny shaves James Bond's face with a straight razor (opens in new tab)? It's sexy at its best: he's totally helpless and she's maneuvering the sharp blade around his neck. And the shave is so smooth. (opens in new tab) Since then, the idea of shaving with a straight razor has always been in the back of my mind, albeit on my legs rather than my face (opens in new tab).
Enter my boyfriend, who adamantly refuses to shave with anything but a straight razor. For the past few years, I've watched him look in the mirror every few days to achieve a ridiculously close shave and smooth jawline (unfortunately, he won't let me do it). Then one night, in an isolated fugue state of online shopping, I pulled the trigger: I bought a razor. The next day I shaved from my ankles to my bikini line with the razor.
Let me tell you, it was a game-changer. Not only did it remove the traces of hair from my legs, but I felt like the dead skin had been shaved off, and it was probably the smoothest shave I've ever had. If you're tired of spending money on razor blades, want a more sustainable shave, or are interested in shaving like James Bond does, here's everything you need to know about how to shave with a straight razor.
There are reasons why straight razors have been favored throughout history. For one, shaving with a razor is easier to control than with a standard blade razor. For those who have trouble shaving around their knees or want to shave a small area of hair, such as the bikini line, the straight razor is perfect.
Second, straight razors are a great option for those with sensitive skin that is prone to ingrown hairs and razor burn. They are also surprisingly safe for those who frequently injure their skin when used properly. This was a surprise to me. I had truly expected to cut myself a few times when shaving. However, shaving over a scabbed over wound (courtesy of a new kitten) did not cut me once.
Finally, straight razors have considerably less environmental impact than conventional razors. Straight razors have no disposable parts and therefore generate less waste.
When I first considered purchasing a straight razor, I was honestly dissatisfied with the prices I saw online. The good ones cost over $100. My standard razor costs about $10, and I wasn't willing to spend more than ten times that to get similar results. However, not wanting to let go of my James Bond-induced dream, I came to the conclusion that over the years I have spent probably more than that amount of money replacing razors and buying new razor blades.
Take my advice: just add it to your cart and buy it. Please, please, please don't skimp on a cheap razor. This razor is amazingly sharp and should last a lifetime. Cheap razors don't hold up well and sometimes the blades are too dull to shave safely.
You also need shaving cream. Traditionally, a shaving brush and soap are used together to create a thick lather that makes shaving easier. While not strictly necessary, I recommend purchasing these additional items for the full nine yards. Not only does shaving soap make shaving easier, but it lasts for years so you don't have to repurchase it for a long time. Most shaving soaps come in refillable containers, so their environmental impact is fairly low. I am a fan of these products, but I have also shaved with foaming shaving cream with similar results. The only thing I would suggest is to never use a non-foaming body soap. You want a thick lather so you can shave safely.
I wanted to shave my legs, not my face, so I had a hard time finding a YouTube tutorial that met my needs. Eventually, I tracked down this video that gave me all the information I needed to know:
First, I placed a towel soaked in hot water on my legs to prepare my skin. When the towel felt lukewarm, I used a brush to lather up the shaving soap. Note: Over time, the soap on the legs will dry out. It is important to re-lather before going to that area.
Position-wise, I felt most comfortable shaving with my feet on the vanity and facing the bathroom mirror. That way I could see my calves as I shaved them and also the back of my thighs when I reached that area. So. Find a position that feels comfortable to you and work on your mobility and flexibility level. In the video I watched, she was sitting. My way felt more natural
Of course, the hardest part is learning how not to cut yourself with a razor. I got the general idea by watching videos and watching straight shaving in movies. Here's what I did: hold the razor open in a V-shape against your leg, and hold the razor from the inside of the V-shape. If you hold the blade at an angle to the skin, you'll be surprised at how much it scratches. After a few tries, I found an angle that works naturally. I definitely recommend going in at a super-slow pace and making a few trial cuts where the veins are less noticeable. Eventually you will find a rhythm that works for you.
After using the razor a few times, wipe off the shaving cream and removed hair with a nearby towel to keep the blade clean. After shaving unwanted hair, rinse with lukewarm water, pat dry, and apply a lotion of your choice (open in new tab) or body oil (open in new tab).
Razors are built to last, but they need to be cared for to stay clean. After shaving, it is important to clean and treat the blade immediately. It is recommended to carefully wipe off the shaving soap, dry the blade completely, and rub a small amount of jojoba oil on it. Razor blades are made of steel and will oxidize if not properly cared for. Cleaning well and applying oil regularly will keep the blade in tip-top condition. It is best to store razors in a dry room, not in the bathroom, to prevent moisture in the air from harming the blades.
Next, the blades should be sharpened every few months. This can be done at home, just like sharpening a kitchen knife. Most shaving companies sell leather strips (open with new tab) that can easily and effectively sharpen the blades. Finally, if you use a shaving brush for applying soap, it should be cleaned and dried after each use. If you purchase a brush stand (opens in new tab), you can use it as a sinkside decoration and store it easily.
All of this may seem daunting. But in my opinion, the benefits to your skin and the environment (not to mention your wallet) all add up. I have branched out from shaving my legs to shaving my underarms, and I shave with a straight razor. There is a learning curve to shaving with a razor. But sometimes tried-and-true methods trump innovation. In the words of Moneypenny, "New tricks for old dogs."
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