Top hairstylists teach how to make finger coils
The ultimate dream for curly girls is to always have the perfect ringlet (opens in new tab) that is manageable and frizz-free. It's like the Narnia of hair goals, a mystical thing that very few people have actually seen, but everyone wants it. Having a good hair day (opens in new tab) is great, but spending hours in front of the mirror styling your hair (opens in new tab) to perfection is discouraging. So: finger coils.
Finger coils are at-home hairstyles that require neither hot tools nor professional skills. With patience, fingertips, plenty of styling cream, and ta-da, bouncy and life-like curls, you'll be the darling of the curly hair ball. To reach my hair goal, I asked two curly hair experts: Lorraine Massey, owner of the salon Spiral (x,y,z) and founder of CurlyWorld (opens in new tab), and Magic Fingers Studio (opens in new tab) Open in new tab) and Stasha Harris (open in new tab), owner of Magic Fingers Studio (open in new tab), for tips. Read our guide to finger wrapping and it won't take you long.
To get the finger-coil curls of your dreams, you need to start with freshly washed hair. Massey recommends using a sulfate-free shampoo, as sulfates are known to dry out curls. You wouldn't drink salt water if you were thirsty," she says, "and shampoo is no different. Shampoo is like that," says Massey. Ever since we were born, we have been conditioned to believe that foam removes dirt, but foam has no cleaning power. It is the mechanical agitation of our own fingertips that does the housekeeping on our heads and everywhere else."
This also applies to conditioners. Simply changing your current conditioner to one that is water soluble and non-silicone will make all the difference in the freshness of your curls. Conditioner is to your hair what water is to your body," Massey explains. She prefers CurlyWorld (open in new tab) shampoo and conditioner. For other options, see below.
Perhaps the worst part of having curly hair is the constant cycle of detangling required. But it has to be done. Harris recommends starting at the ends of wet hair, extending toward the roots, and applying silicone-free styling products to the entire head. Harris uses Shine Jam Black Castor Linseed Oil Styler (opens in new tab) for finger curls. For added shine and moisture, she likes to finish with Ampro Vitamin E Oil (opens in new tab).
Once your hair is fully saturated with product, Harris suggests starting by twisting small sections of tresses in a spiral-like motion starting at the nape of the neck to maximize the volume of the style. Use a comb to delineate sections so that all sections are the same size. Repeat this spiral twirling movement until the entire head is finished. Remember to dry the hair completely and then wrap it in a satin or silk head wrap. If you are sleep deprived, allow your hair to dry naturally, then gently comb through your hair with your hands to loosen the gel clumps. Use your hands or a pick (open in new tab) to fluff the roots a bit to reveal the finger coils of the installer.
No time wasting for finger coils that only last a day or two. To keep your curls alive, Massey recommends doing a "spot cleanse" of your scalp on the second or third day of wear with a curl refresher. Think of your hair like a dress. If you spill something on your dress, you don't have to take the whole dress off to clean it. The same goes for your hair. Just observe the view and spray on the areas that need a little reboot."
Many great options are listed below, but if you want to make your own at home, Massey says to mix your favorite water-soluble, non-silicone conditioner with lavender or distilled water in a spritz bottle. Shake, then spray onto frayed curls to bring them back to life.
Other tips to remember: 1) don't comb your coils once they are dry, 2) don't use cream-based products once your hair is set, and 3) embrace trial and error in the world of curls. Harris says, "Hair is art, so just have fun with it." Says Harris.
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