One would not research the basics of skin care in any way without coming across the intimidating spelling pronunciation of hyaluronic acid (opens in new tab). But what hyaluronic acid (or HA) lacks in linguistic simplicity, it makes up for in simplicity and straightforward usage. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most effective, reliable, and accessible moisturizers (open in new tab). We asked our dermatologist to show us how hyaluronic acid works and how to use it. So, let's embark on a journey of knowledge into the wonderful world of this magical moisturizing acid.

"Hyaluronic acid is Mother Nature's sponge," says Mona Gohara, associate professor of dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine in New Haven. What she means is that HA is a natural humectant, or moisture-holding substance; in Z-generation terms, hyaluronic acid is thirsty and can draw moisture from the air into the skin, hydrating and plumping the complexion. (Some say hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water.)

"Hyaluronic acid can also be used as a natural moisturizer.

"Our bodies make hyaluronic acid regularly, but in our late 20s, its production begins to decline, leading to undesirable signs of aging," says dermatologist Peterson Pierre of Pierre Skin Care Institute in Thousand Oaks, CA.

The good news is that hyaluronic acid is readily available in topical skin care products of all price ranges and categories and is effectively absorbed into the skin. However, there are a few things to be aware of.

"The key is to find products with HA of multiple molecular weights," Gohara explains. He notes that smaller particles penetrate the skin more effectively, while larger particles stay on the skin surface and absorb more water over time. She continues, "This provides both immediate plumping and long-term benefits." [It is available in serums, creams, ampoules, and can be found in other products such as sunscreens and retinol. The wide availability of hyaluronic acid highlights another wonderful aspect of hyaluronic acid: it is non-reactive, storage stable, and does not degrade or deactivate in the presence of other skin care ingredients.

Gohara personally uses a neutral hyaluronic acid cream after a morning vitamin C layer and before applying sunscreen. If the molecular weight is not listed in the description of the product you are interested in (it usually is not), your dermatologist can help you choose an effective option.

Yes, we have buried the main issue here. Hyaluronic acid, while very effective topically, is perhaps best known today as one of the safest and most ubiquitous injectable fillers in the world. There are more than a dozen different brands of hyaluronic acid, but Restylane, the first and most popular, and Jubiderm, the most popular, are the best-known hyaluronic acids. Pierre also recognizes a new brand, Teoxane, recently developed by the same scientists who developed Jubiderm.

These hyaluronic acids are injected just below the skin surface to plump crow's feet, laugh lines, laugh lines, and worry lines around the mouth and forehead. Hyaluronic acid can also be injected into the cheeks and lips to replace lost volume. These treatments are not permanent, but can be expected to last 6 to 12 months, depending on the individual's metabolism, and cost anywhere from $500 to several thousand dollars. (Insurance does not cover selective hyaluronic acid injections.) AOC, let's get to it.)

The fillers we are talking about are all FDA approved for the treatment of lines and wrinkles. However, they are not without risk.

"Filler injection is a medical procedure and should only be performed by the most skilled injection technicians who know the anatomy," says Pierre. This sounds obvious, but estheticians and third-party providers can offer treatment at discounted prices. See your doctor. Not only could the result be aesthetically less than ideal (uneven, clumpy, bumpy), but there are real risks.

"Filler injections may seem simple," Pierre continues, "but in the hands of an inexperienced person, complications can quickly arise, the most serious being blindness. Even a skilled practitioner can expect redness, bruising, swelling, and tenderness the day after the procedure.