Ask any respected skin professional and they will tell you that incorporating retinoid products into your skin care routine is non-negotiable. Retinoids are a class of ingredients derived from vitamin A. They are powerful ingredients that have been clinically proven to reduce acne, prevent wrinkles, fade blemishes, and reverse sun damage. One particularly common retinoid is retinol, (opens in new tab) often found in serums and moisturizers and available over the counter. (Open in new tab) A more potent, prescription-only iteration is tretinoin (better known by the brand name Retin-A). While these "confusing" terms are often used interchangeably, it is important to understand that there are some distinct differences.

To help navigate the ins and outs of the retinoid family, I spoke with board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of 4.5.6 Melanin Skin Care (opens in new tab) Dr. Carlos A. Charles. Keep reading as he breaks down the key differences, best practices for use, and notable products.

What are retinoids?

"Retinoids are the gold standard for treating a variety of skin concerns, including acne, fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture, and restoring signs of pigmentation," Dr. Charles explains.

"When used topically, retinoids promote skin cell turnover and help build collagen, among other important functions.

Derived from vitamin A, this potent ingredient has both topical and oral uses and may require a prescription, depending on its strength.

How should retinoids be used?

Dr. Charles recommends incorporating retinoid products into your evening skin care routine. He says, "UV light not only increases skin sensitivity, but can render some retinoids inactive. 'When incorporating retinoids into your skin care regimen, it should be done gradually. I encourage patients to start by applying a pea-sized amount of product at bedtime once or twice a week for the first three to four weeks, then gradually increase the frequency as tolerated. Additionally, applying a gentle skin moisturizer such as Cerave PM or Cetaphil before and after product application can help minimize dryness and irritation"

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What are the risks of retinoids?

Retinoids, even when used alone, can cause inflammation when incorporated into a regimen. However, mixing retinoids with other active ingredients can increase skin sensitivity and cause severe dermatitis. Dr. Charles advises, "Avoid skin care products that contain various acids, benzoyl peroxide, and topical agents used to treat pigmentation." Ultimately, beginners and those with sensitive skin should take a close look at their current skin care routine before adding retinoids.

What is retinol?

"Retinol is an over-the-counter, milder retinoid," Dr. Charles explains. Retinol is less potent than prescription drugs and has fewer side effects, but it requires a longer period of time and constant use before it is effective. Retinol is often combined with other moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to make an easy-to-use serum, moisturizer, or mask.

"Retinol can be incorporated into a skin care routine at various times depending on a person's overall skin goals," says Dr. Charles.

"Many of my patients will begin using retinol, or prescription strength retinoids, in their late 20s or early 30s.

What are the side effects of retinol?

The most frequent side effects of retinol occur early in use. Symptoms commonly experienced include "skin peeling, mild sensitivity, and occasional acne activity. These symptoms tend to subside as the skin adjusts to retinol," Dr. Charles says, noting that it takes two to three weeks for the skin to adjust. Again, to minimize side effects, slowly incorporate retinol into your daily routine and listen to your skin.

Should you use retinoids or retinol?

Retinoids are anti-aging gems, the go-to solution for fighting breakouts and texture disorders, and your skin's best friend when used correctly. If you want a mild, preventative approach to skin improvement, start with a serum or moisturizer that contains a low dose (0.03%) of retinol.

If you are dealing with more severe, chronic acne flare-ups, consult a dermatologist to see if you are a candidate for a prescription strength retinoid. Trust us - days of blemish-free, glowing skin are in your future.