A Dermatologist's Guide to Melasma Treatment
Recently, a friend told me that while on vacation she suddenly developed a strange, blotchy, brownish rash (opens in new tab) on her skin. She said, "It looked like a bunch of acne scars (opens in new tab) above my lips and on my forehead." It was like a dark shadow that would not go away." After three weeks of my daily, annoyingly persistent reminders, she finally went to a dermatologist, who discovered that the spots were not actually scars, but melasma, a skin disease that can happen to anyone (scary musical cue). Just kidding: melasma is not the kiss of death.
Dr. Roberta Del Campo, medical director of Skin Laundry (open in new tab) (open in new tab), explains: "Melasma is a common condition that appears as irregular brown, brown, or brown-gray pigmentation spots, usually on the face.
It occurs, she says, when melanin-producing cells (melanocytes) in the skin become hyperactive. Annie Chiu, M.D., a dermatologist at the Derm Institute (open in new tab), says this is because it can be caused by a variety of factors, including "genetic predisposition, increased estrogen levels, and skin type."
What causes melasma?
Basically, anyone with skin is at risk of developing melasma (of course, one should always consult a dermatologist for a formal diagnosis), but Dr. Chiu and Dr. Delcampo say that the following are particularly susceptible to melasma:
It is a large segment of the population and making prevention difficult.
Nevertheless, "the most common trigger for melasma is UV radiation from sun exposure," says Dr. Del Campo.
Melasma is treatable, but it requires considerable dedication to treating your skin. Says Dr. Chiu, "In our office, we use peels and very specific low-level lasers to break up the pigment."
Dr. Del Campo also recommends laser treatment, noting advances in the Skin Laundry System:(opens in new tab) "This treatment not only improves discoloration, but also helps reduce recurrence." (Editor's note: Having had this treatment myself, I was afraid it would make my skin worse, but after two sessions I noticed a difference in the pigmentation caused by melasma.)
Regarding her at-home skin care routine, Dr. Chiu said, "We use a mix of prescription strength hydroquinone, kojic acid, retinol (opens in new tab), and vitamin C products (opens in new tab) to treat melasma at home as well as UVA and UVB-protective sunscreen carefully," she says.
Seeing a dermatologist is essential for long-lasting treatment, but you can still reduce hyperpigmentation with the best spot-removing products and sunscreens. We cannot stress this enough. Please. Please wear. Sunscreen. (Opens in new tab) Dr. Delcampo recommends a zinc oxide or titanium dioxide sunscreen rather than a chemical SPF containing oxybenzone and homosalate.
Pay attention to the active ingredients in the product, especially those mentioned by Dr. Chiu. If a product contains oxybenzone, homosalate, or fragrance, skip it, says Dr. Del Campo. Choose gentle skin care products that won't sting or tingle." Now, don't exacerbate melasma, and make that dedication a part of your routine, because your skin deserves it.
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