I have never been a fan of needles. Not that I cry every time I get an injection, but using needles, even "microneedling," as part of my skin care routine seemed too horrible to try. But then I went down the TikTok rabbit hole about microneedling and dermaplaning (opens in new tab) and its benefits-glowing skin, improved texture, etc.-and I knew I had to try it.

Microneedling is designed to be done by professionals, but there are options for microneedling at home, too. But let me and the microneedling experts I spoke to, innovative tools guru Kelly Benjamin (opens in new tab), make it clear: using a dermaroller at home is dangerous and can damage your skin if not done properly! ....... As ever, always consult a dermatologist or esthetician.

Microneedling is exactly what it sounds like: using a dermaroller (opens in new tab) on your face. A dermaroller (opens in new tab) consists of a cluster of tiny needles that penetrate the skin when rolled over the face.

According to Benjamin, microneedling has two main benefits: "It stimulates epidermal growth factors, increasing collagen and elastin which plumps and tightens the skin and increases absorption of active ingredients by 90%.

Microneedling sets the stage for dull skin and an even complexion, thanks to collagen being produced more regularly. It also helps with fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars.

As mentioned above, a professional is your best bet for a thoroughly safe and more effective microneedling process. However, microneedling can be done safely at home, too. The most important thing to be sure about: the size of the needle.

"Microneedling for home use should be done with 0.2mm rollers," says Benjamin. These are considered cosmetic needles and are safe and effective for daily home use for great results; needles larger than 0.5 mm should always be used by a licensed professional."

And I am sorry to say this, but if you are dealing with active acne, you should skip microneedling at home, otherwise you could spread bacteria and cause more problems. But Benjamin adds that the dermaroller can also be used on non-pustular acne, such as pimples filled with fluid or pus: "If you have a pimple, you can roll around it. In the case of cystic acne, it helps the active agent penetrate deep into the lesion and treat it quickly."

First things first: always clean the instrument before and after use and make sure the needle is not too blunt. If you begin to feel resistance when using the rollers, you'll know it's time to replace the dermaroller heads."

Serums contain active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (open in new tab), which plumps the skin, and growth factors that help maintain healthy skin." These are the types of ingredients that really maximize the effects of microneedling to stimulate collagen, speed up cell turnover, lift pigmentation (opens in new tab), smooth fine lines (opens in new tab), and firm plump and hydrate." Benjamin says.

Inflammation and redness usually subside within an hour or so. Avoid the use of retinol (open in new tab) and retinoid products, especially vitamin C (open in new tab), Benjamin warns. Says he, "Vitamin C is very active and unstable and can cause a lot of irritation, especially since it penetrates deep into the skin."

On the flip side, serums and moisturizers containing peptides, growth factors, and hyaluronic acid (open in new tab) are fair game. In fact, they are recommended to help cell turnover and allow the skin to grow healthy and strong.

Benjamin says that if you use the right serum and keep rolling well, you will start to see results in a couple of weeks. I always say, "The more you roll, the more you shine." However, the results will vary depending on your skin condition and concerns."

You will know it is working when your skin begins to look healthier and more radiant. The overall texture of your skin will improve, leaving it smoother and even brighter.