Retinol for Beginners: The Complete Guide

Retinol for Beginners: The Complete Guide

You've probably already heard about retinol. You've seen it in the drugstore, heard it on TV, or listened to your best friend enthusiastically talk about retinol every time he or she "rediscovers" skin care. The hype about retinol is true. But do you really know what retinol is and what it does?

"Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are ultimately converted to the active form of the molecule, retinoic acid," explains Dr. Corey L. Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama.

However, there are varying levels of retinoids. Hartman explains, "Prescription retinoids have higher concentrations of vitamin A and are more potent than their OTC counterparts."

"Prescription retinoids have a higher percentage of active ingredients and should only be used under a physician's supervision.

The most common form of retinoid is retinol. And there are plenty of retinol products readily available in stores: "The over-the-counter options are retinol or retinal, which have to go through more conversion once in the skin to provide the benefits of retinoic acid (the prescription version)," says Hartman. And Hartman says: "This makes the product less potent, but also more palatable."

Now you have a primer, but there is much more to know about this wonder ingredient. Read on to learn more about retinol.

"Until your early 30s, cells are replaced every 28 days, creating a fresh layer of pristine, pristine skin," says dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D. (opens in new tab). But after the mid-30s, cellular renewal slows down, replacing itself every 50, 60, 70 days." That slowed cellular regeneration is what makes your face look dry, dull, and wrinkled.

Retinol, however, penetrates the skin and speeds up cell turnover. Retinol essentially creates the illusion that your body is younger than it actually is, effectively creating a Benjamin Button-esque scenario. [It takes at least three months of nightly retinol use to see some reduction in fine lines, spots, and acne.

Our recommendation: the Revitalift Night Serum with Pure Retinol by L'Oréal Paris (open in new tab) contains pure retinol (the most potent form of retinol) to help visibly reduce wrinkles and fine lines (even deep ones). The serum is fast-acting, with independent clinical trials (open in new tab) showing improvement in wrinkles and skin texture in testers in just 12 weeks. It also contains moisturizing ingredients that prevent redness and inflammation.

As Dr. Hartman explained earlier, retinol is just one of many different types of retinoids (a generic term for all vitamin A derivatives, including retinol) on the market. For example, drugstore anti-aging formulas may contain retinyl palmitate (the weakest of the retinoids), retinol (the next strongest and most tolerated), retinaldehyde (even stronger), adapalene (specifically formulated to treat acne) (the strongest over-the-counter drug specifically prescribed for the treatment of acne), and others. Alternatively, a dermatologist may prescribe an even stronger retinoid such as tretinoin or tazarotene.

So which retinoid to choose? Ideally, you would ask your dermatologist to explain the best option for your skin type. But since you probably won't have an appointment, Dr. Gohara recommends starting with the most skin-friendly retinoids, such as retinyl palmitate (for sensitive or dry skin) or retinol (for other skin types), and moving up to a more intense formula after a year. Yes, after one year.

"Start by using retinol 2-3 times a week," Hartman adds. [21] "If you're new to retinol, choose a product with moisturizing ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid. Apply a moisturizer after applying the retinol product at night and again in the morning to keep the skin barrier as strong as possible."

However, staying on the regimen is the key to seeing results. "You may see signs of what we call 'retinol purging' - increased acne, redness, or flaky skin," Hartman explains. 'As long as this is not painful, continue to use retinol. Once the skin becomes accustomed to the use of retinol, such symptoms will subside."

Whichever retinoid you choose, know that they are all effective in the long run. Studies have shown that using low-strength retinoids can have the same long-term anti-aging effects as using medium-strength retinoids.

Because retinoids exfoliate skin cells more quickly than normal, the skin will likely experience flakiness, dryness, irritation, and breakouts for several weeks until the skin survives the adaptation period. Fortunately, there are things that can be done to mitigate the effects.

First, choose the gentlest formula (still, retinyl palmitate or retinol) and start slowly - just one night a week for one week, two nights a week for two weeks, three nights a week for three weeks, then every other night (for sensitive skin) or every night (for "tough" skin) indefinitely. Says dermatologist Tobechi Ebede, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Cornell University. 'If you don't use it routinely, your skin will revert right back to normal.'

Still, that doesn't mean you should use large doses of retinol to speed up the process. Instead, use just a small amount at night on clean, dry skin. If the retinoid is a night cream (usually in a jar), use just enough to cover the entire face with a thin layer of cream. If the retinoid is a serum (usually in a pump bottle or tube) or prescription, apply a small pea-sized amount all over the face, wait 20 minutes for absorption, then apply your usual serum or moisturizer over it.

Just be sure to use acne-fighting products (such as those containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid) on nights when you are not using retinoids. Retinoids inherently fight breakouts and oily skin, so they don't suddenly turn into giant pimples.

Indeed, retinoids are the gold standard for wrinkle prevention and line smoothing treatments, but they are also excellent at turning your face into a bright little marble. Says Dr. Ebede, "Retinoids stimulate cell turnover, increase collagen and elastin production, plump skin, clean and shrink pores, and even help fade dark spots and redness."

And we're not just talking about a slight improvement. Retinoids can resurface deep into the skin because they act on a cellular level, rather than on a topical level like most skin care products. This grandma who used Retin-A (opens in new tab) made headlines for looking so young, and this acne-skinned woman completely cured her breakouts with Retinol (opens in new tab) and took the Internet by storm. Retinoids really are the key to perfect skin.

Are you ready to use retinoids effectively now? Are you about to make an appointment with your dermatologist or run to the skin care section of the drugstore? Has your mind been blown?"

I choose to believe that your answer this time around is a big "YUP."

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