A Dermatologist's Guide to Accutane
If you've tried every topical medication under the sun in an effort to streamline your skin care routine and improve your chronic acne, but have met with little success, it may be time to go over Accutane, otherwise known as isotretinoin, with your doctor It may be time to discuss the For a crash course in the famous acne treatment, we tapped a handful of top dermatologists to create a one-stop store guide to Accutane.
From the benefits oral medications have to offer (goodbye, acne) to potential side effects like insanely dry lips (you'll need Aquafol on standby), our expert panel wants to keep you top of mind before you commit to months of treatment We're breaking down everything you'd think you'd want to keep top of mind.
"It's the best overall in terms of long-term efficacy, but it can have significant side effects and requires commitment," explains Dr. Morgan Raback, board-certified dermatologist and founder of LM Medical New York.
To learn more about isotretinoin and determine if it is right for you, keep reading. For all the details, from the blood testing schedule you need to adhere to to the skin care swaps you need to make, Marie Claire outlines all the details below in our guide to Accutane.
Accutane is the brand name for the drug isotretinoin, a high-dose vitamin A treatment in pill form. Isotretinoin is the most potent drug for treating acne," says Dr. Joshua Zyckner, a board-certified dermatologist and director of clinical and cosmetic dermatology research at Mount Sinai Hospital. 'Unlike other drugs, we can expect long-term remission.'
If you're wondering how acne actually improves, Dr. Lavac says that over the course of a few months, the treatment permanently shrinks the oil glands. As a result, sebum production is reduced, pores become less clogged, and most importantly, there are fewer breakouts.
Isotretinoin is approved for anyone over the age of 12. While this is basic, deciding who should take Accutane is a more nuanced process for dermatologists. Many do not recommend Accutane until they have exhausted other options. Dr. Lavac explains, "Candidates for isotretinoin are those who have failed other oral medications (antibiotics, spironolactone, birth control pills, etc.) and have scarring."
Dr. Sapna Palep, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Spring Street Dermatology, adds that the drug is especially helpful for those who cannot successfully treat hormonal acne. While this is certainly more common in teenagers, she explains that she sees many women in their 20s, 30s, and 40s, as well as postmenopausal women, suffering from chronic acne. In fact, one study found that 15.3% of women over the age of 50 suffer from acne.
It is also important to note that those taking Accutane are not pregnant or trying to become pregnant. All women taking Accutane must be enrolled in the IPledge program and commit to taking two methods of birth control.
There are certainly side effects to consider (more on those later), but unlike other antibiotics and creams, Dr. Zeichner notes that isotretinoin produces long-term remission in patients with severe acne. He says, "I can't promise that your skin will stay clear forever, but it will never be the same as it was before you took it." Moreover, it targets acne regardless of its location, whether it's acne on the buttocks, breasts, or face.
Dr. Parep also likes the treatment because patients can see a reduction in active acne in just two weeks. With that in mind, she does her best to clear the patient's complexion with other topical medications and antibiotics as far in advance as possible to avoid extreme purging. 'Think about it. If Accutane is constricting the oil glands, it is pushing all the debris out. If you have clogged acne [when you start isotretinoin], it's not going to look good," she says.
Perhaps the most widespread side effect is super-dry skin over the eyes, lips, and nose, says Dr. Rabach. This is noticeable in the first few days after taking the medication. Some people benefit from frequent moisturizing, while others need a prescription for a steroid cream to manage the cracking.
"Besides dryness, this drug can cause muscle and joint pain, elevated cholesterol levels, and in rare cases, blurred vision," says Dr. Zeichner, adding that isotretinoin is metabolized in the liver, which can be taxing. Dr. Rabach added that isotretinoin is metabolized in the liver, which can be taxing. Therefore, it is important to avoid alcohol consumption.
There are also conflicting studies showing a relationship between Accutane and depression, but no definitive link has been found. For a complete list of potential side effects, consult a dermatologist and consult the American Academy of Dermatology website.
Given the side effects associated with Accutane, monthly meetings with the primary care physician and monthly blood tests are non-negotiable to ensure that all levels are equal. Dr. Parep also performs an exam one week after the patient's last Accutane dose. He says, "We test one week after the patient finishes taking Accutane. But if their cholesterol is a little high, for example, we will take another blood sample at the three-month check-in to make sure everything is normal," she says.
While not applying sunscreen (SPF 50, please) is an absolute no-no, it is even more important to remember to lather up and reapply when you are taking isotretinoin. It is very important to protect yourself from the sun, as this medication can be very sun sensitive."
Treatment usually lasts four to seven months, but the exact timing is determined by the dermatologist. After one dose of Accutane, acne gradually improves, but some patients may require a second dose of isotretinoin.
It is also possible, according to Dr. Palep, that a patient may have acne in remission for years and then need to resume Accutane.
Dr. Lavac tells patients to avoid products that make the skin more sensitive. These include benzoyl peroxide cleansers, acidic serums, retinol, and all acne creams. As for products to use, Dr. Parep recommends sticking to "the really simple stuff." He recommends avoiding oils and serums and using moisturizing oil-free moisturizers and skin cleansers that are gentle on the skin.
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